Student:
Pronam, Gurudev. We have read in various books and also heard from youâyou were once telling us a story about Narmada. As far as we know, every seeker must visit Narmada; otherwise, their spiritual journey remains incomplete. So, please tell us more about Narmada.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
What can I say? One day, a gentleman arrivedâhe was a PRO for the South Eastern Railway, a Mr. Bhattacharya. He told me, "Your ticket has been booked for Puri." I replied, "I have been to Puri 30 or 40 times; I won't go there." He said, "But everything is ready for the trip!" I said, "No, I won't go to Puri. But if you can take me to Narmada, I am willing to go."
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
He said, "How is that possible? My wife is 78 years old, and I am 82." I told him, "I will take care of that, don't worry." He was concerned about the hilly roads and the difficulty of climbing, but I insisted, "I'll manage it. If you go, I am ready for Narmada." Since he was a PRO for the railways, there were no issues with logistics. He consulted with his wife, and they both agreed. His son also agreed. So, he booked the tickets for Bilaspur. From Bilaspur, there was a corresponding train to Pendra Road. From Pendra Road, we had to travel by car up the mountainsâabout a two-and-a-half-hour journey. We reached there around 3:00 or 4:00 PM.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
We stayed at the Bharat Sevashram Sangha. It was still being developed then, but the Maharajs were there. They gave us a place to stay. That night, I spoke with the Maharaj about the local sights. He said, "Don't worry. Rest tomorrow, and the day after, I will arrange a car to take you everywhere." On the first day, we went to the Mother's Temple. There is a reservoir there, designed according to the sketch of the Narmada. At the corners, there are what we call "Narmada Yantras." We sat at those corners to meditate. Many people meditate there, but there is a catchâthe Maharaj warned us that if an impure person sits there, there are two monkeys (Hanuman) that will come and slap them away!
Student:
Gurudev, how do the monkeys distinguish between people?
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
Brother, I cannot explain how they know. I just sat there as the Maharaj instructed. He told me to be cautious because the monkeys can be very mischievous. Anyway, I sat for meditation, and nothing happened. I meditated at various spots as he suggested. We saw the Mother and watched the evening Aarti. There is a Shiva idol in the water. The Aarti is performed from the shore because you cannot go into the water. It was a beautiful sight; it filled the heart. The Maharaj then told me I could light a lamp if I wished. There is a specific "Pradip Ghar" (Lamp Room). Inside, on the right, you can light a lamp. You have to offer some ghee so the lamp stays lit for a long time. The room was filled with countless lamps. I lit one according to their instructions.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
It was late when we returned from the Narmada Mother Temple. Within the same complex, there are temples for Ram and Sita, and many other deities. Across a canal from the Narmada temple is the Barfani Baba Temple. We decided to visit him the next morning. I had read about Barfani Baba in books and was very eager to see him. When we arrived in the morning, we saw idols of Radha and Krishna; he is a great devotee of Krishna. On one side, there was a shop selling Rudraksha beads. The temple complex is quite large with many rooms where one can stay.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
When we met Barfani Baba, he was sitting with his feet on a large plate. An amazing thing happens every morningâa monkey comes to him, uncovers his feet, and performs a sort of worship (Pada-Seva). It's quite peculiar. After the monkey leaves, people come to offer flowers and pray. He doesn't speak much. If you are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of him. In the afternoon, he usually goes out in a car. The next day, as promised, the car arrived to take us sightseeing. First, we went to the Pataleshwar Temple, which is an underground Shiva temple. It's located in a field and is very well-maintained. After that, we were taken to Kabir's houseâthe place where Kabir used to meditate and teach people.
Student:
For the welfare of humanity.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
Yes. There is a stone slab there, not far from his house, which has a tiled roof. Inside, we saw his wooden sandals (khadam). We visited the spot where he used to sit. There are many sights to see in Narmada. Now, many large temples are being built. When we went, there weren't many people. There were no proper arrangements for food. The Maharaj told us, "If you buy the groceries, we can cook for you." We stayed for about a month, so we had to buy our own foodâmostly simple meals like dal, rice, and mixed vegetables. Because it was very cold, they kept drums of water with fire burning underneath. The Maharaj told us to use that hot water for bathing. He also warned us not to go out at night because of the bears. They would often come near the temple at night. We stayed inside.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
At 4:00 AM, the Aarti would begin. Everyone staying there had to wake up. After freshening up, there was an Aarti for Swami Pranabananda Ji. There was also singing and music, which was very spiritual. From early morning, loudspeakers from various ashramsâMarkandeya Rishi, Vishwamitra, and othersâwould play hymns. It was a wonderful atmosphere.
Student:
My question is about the Narmada Parikrama (circumambulation). All great seekers and those who become enlightened in the future must perform the Narmada Parikrama.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
Yes, we had to do it. Now it is easier, but in the past, the path went through dense jungles. Many people never returned. Tribes like the Kol, Bhil, and Munda lived in those forests. They would rob people or even kill them if they didn't hand over their belongings. Now, there are proper roads, so it isn't an issue. While we were there, we saw a massive stone temple being constructed. It was incomplete at the time. I meditated daily at the Mother's temple. It is said that the Mother wanders everywhere and appears to seekers. I believed this firmly. I had read the book Tapobhumi Narmada and was fascinated by the idea of a place where God truly walks. I was determined to go.
Student:
As far as we know, Mr. Bhattacharya is your friend.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
Yes, he is a very close friend. He is around 86 now. He has great respect and devotion for me. The Maharaj then suggested we visit Dattatreya, the Mother's Garden (where the Narmada originates), Kapildhara, and Dudhdhara. We visited Kapildhara one day and Dudhdhara the next. At Dudhdhara, there is a Shiva idol inside a cave. Water falls all around it. It is said that Vishwamitra or some other sage established it. It is a very sacred spot. We couldn't go deep into the cave, but we visited the temple. Water drips from the ceiling. We bathed in Dudhdhara. You cannot bathe in Kapildhara because the current is too strong. It's dangerous, especially for older people. At Dudhdhara, we bathed and offered prayers to Shiva.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
The next day, we went to Dattatreya and the Mother's Garden. The mountain there has been cut into a circular shape, which many people visit as part of the Narmada tour. There is a flower there called "Ghule Bakawali." It looks like the Dolon Chapa flower we have here, and the plant is similar too. They say it is the Mother's favorite flower. In the Mother's Garden, I saw an ascetic sitting under a mango tree. He was a Naga Sadhu (ash-smeared and unclad), sitting by a ritual fire (dhuni). I spoke with him and realized he understood Bengali. We spoke for a while, gave him some money, and then went to Dattatreya before returning home.
Student:
Why do seekers perform the Narmada Parikrama?
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
Because there is no other way. Narmada is Shiva's place. The river is said to be Shiva's teardrop. Shaivites must go, but all seekers should set foot there. On our last day, we were told to visit Bhrigu Kamandalu and Bhrigu Kund. To get there, you have to walk at least one krosh (about 2 miles). Mr. Bhattacharya was hesitant because there are no cars. You have to walk on a dirt, stony path. We started at 7:00 AM and reached around 1:30 PM.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
When we arrived at the mountain, we saw an ash-smeared sadhu making rotis. There were a few other people there who were excited to see Bengalis from Kolkata. The sadhu gave us some prasad. He told me, "The Mother comes here at night and wanders during the day. Why don't you sit for meditation?" He pointed to a stone under a tree and told me to meditate there. He said, "You will find the Mother." The others stayed back, but I sat there for about an hour. What the sadhu said was true. It is believed that the Mother keeps a sharp eye on everyone who visits Narmada, ensuring they have water and everything they need. We then went to Bhrigu Kund, where Sage Bhrigu used to bathe. It is fenced off, and no one is allowed to touch that water. Nearby, there is another reservoir where people perform rituals; that one is paved with stone and is very clean. We bathed there.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
Regarding Bhrigu KamandaluâSage Bhrigu used to bathe there, but no one is allowed to touch the water in the main spot. The sadhu warned us about bears again. There are small brick houses there, but no one stays in them because of the bears and other "supernatural" things at night. They keep the doors and fences locked. Bhrigu Kamandalu is a large stone slab with a hole in it. If you put your hand inside, you find water. This is at an altitude of about 3,000 feet. The Maharaj had warned me, "Don't just stick your hand in; you won't find water. First, meditate on Sage Bhrigu." Some of our companions tried and found nothing. But I sat on the slabâlooking down, everything looked tiny, and I saw buffaloes grazingâand meditated. Two dogs had followed us up there and sat by us, but then they vanished.
Student:
You mentioned you meditated for an hour. What was your experience?
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
I had a vision of the Mother. The sadhu had told me to sit quietly and remember "Ma Reva." There, they don't call her Narmada; they call her Reva. Everyone chants "Reva." After meditating, I put my hand in the hole, and it was full of water. I took some and sprinkled it on my head and on the others. The legend is that Sage Bhrigu was once meditating there. Being at such a high altitude, there was no water. He prayed to Ma Reva, and she promised to stay in his Kamandalu (water pot). When the sage finished his meditation and left, he forgot his Kamandalu. It turned into stone, and that is why it is called Bhrigu Kamandalu. It is a very small area, barely enough for one person to stand, right on the edge of the mountain. Not everyone finds water there; only those whom the Mother blesses.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
As I learned from the sadhus, the Mother wanders there as Reva. She keeps a watchful eye on everyone. I saw her in the form of Jagadhatri. According to tradition, a seeker must create an idol of the form they saw and worship it for five years. I did that; I performed Jagadhatri Puja for five years because that is how I saw her. We stayed for a few more days, visited the source of the Narmada again, and then returned. It was a wonderful experience. I want to go again; everything is ready for another trip.
Student:
You gave us a beautiful description of Narmada today.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
Don't say Narmada, say Reva! Reva!
Student:
You described it so vividly, it felt like a picture. We also want to go. We seek your blessings.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
You need Ma Reva's permission. If she permits, you will surely go. It is a beautiful, heavenly place, surrounded by mountains. The atmosphere where the deities wander, especially near Dattatreya and the Mother's Garden, is divine. I even brought back some Ghule Bakawali flowers; the fragrance is incredible.
Student:
Your description was like a painting. We want to follow in your footsteps. We seek your blessings so we can bathe in the Narmada.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
It won't happen without Ma Reva's grace, son. You must pray to her. If she gives permission, you will go. It is a perilous place, but she looks after everyone. I also met Barfani Baba and offered my respects. He didn't say much, but the PRO who was with me spoke to him. At that time, Barfani Baba was said to be over 200 years old. Now he must be 222 or 223. Back then he was younger, but still very old. Anyway, if you go to Narmada, you can see Barfani Baba too. He stays there most of the time. But it all depends on the Mother's grace.
Student:
We will end here for today. Our respects to you.
Guru Shyama Khyapa:
Pronam, Pronam. Blessings to you all.